So you want to buy a used vehicle?

We all know that making a big purchase can be scary, especially if the item can cause significant harm. Even more so if you are not confident in your knowledge base. So, we’ve gathered a few useful hints of things to help you in your decision process.
You can do a lot of the paperwork checks that you need to do before even leaving your home:
Check the vehicle’s details with the DVLA
Ask for:
- Vehicle Registration Number (on the number plate)
- MOT test number
- Current mileage
- Make and model
Use the DVLA’s free service to make sure that what the seller tells you matches the DVLA’s records:
https://www.gov.uk/get-vehicle-information-from-dvla
Check the MOT history with the DVLA
Use the free DVLA service to check the MOT history, not just the current MOT test.
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
- Go right down to the bottom of the screen to the first MOT record
- Check that the mileage increases at each test date as you go up the screen again.
- If the mileage goes down that’s a red flag
- There could be a legitimate reason, but the seller needs to have made you aware that the car is higher mileage than what is displayed on the dashboard.

Check what the car failed on (must be fixed before being retested and driven on the road) or was advised to be monitored and repaired.
Things to Consider:
- If only the failure items were done, how carefully was the owner looking after the car?
- Does the same item keep being listed every year? Is there an explanation why it wasn’t fixed?
Ask about any gaps in MOT history – don’t continue with the deal if you are suspicious. A car might not have needed an MOT if it wasn’t used for a while and was registered as SORN (Statutory Off-Road Notification).
The website should also alert you if there are any outstanding recalls from the vehicle manufacturer.
You can pay for a more detailed check.
For higher value cars, we would recommend a more detailed check for your peace of mind.
Companies including the RAC, the AA and HPI Check will search databases held by the police, the DVLA, insurance companies, and finance houses to provide you with a report. This will include important details such as:
- Is the car is stolen: if you buy a vehicle that turns out to have been stolen then it could be returned to the rightful owner, leaving you out of pocket.
- The mileage is incorrect.
- The car has been written off, repaired and then returned to the road.
- The car has any outstanding loans against it: if you buy a car which is still on finance, you may lose the vehicle and the money you paid for it.
Once you meet the seller you can check physical items.
Checking the vehicle over
Arrange to view the car in daylight, preferably when it’s dry – it’s harder to spot damage to the car if it’s wet.
If you are buying privately, arrange to meet at the seller’s house so that if something goes wrong after you’ve bought the car, you’ll have a record of their address.
Documents
The seller should always be able to show you the V5C registration document. You won’t be able to tax the car without it; that also means you can’t drive it on the road legally. The DVLA advises that you should not buy a vehicle that does not have a V5C.

- Is the seller the registered keeper shown on the V5C? If not, why are they selling it for someone else?
- If you see the physical log book (V5 document) and the details do not match the DVLA records, that is a very big problem and you should walk away and report this to the police.
- Does the registration document have the DVL watermarks in several places? (DVL is correct – many forgeries will get this wrong and show ‘DVLA’)
- Any spelling mistakes on the registration document?
- Do the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), engine number and colour match what is shown on the V5C? You should be able to find the VIN in several places on the vehicle. The VIN number will be stamped into the chassis of a vehicle, usually found in the engine bay or beneath the plastic trim around the driver or passenger door opening. Most vehicles sold in the UK have a ‘visible VIN’, shown near the bottom of the passenger side of the windscreen.

- Does the number plate match on the V5C?
- Has the VIN plate been tampered with? Does it look bent or creased?
- Do VIN numbers etched on glass or lights match the VIN plate and V5C?
- Any sign of scratches on glass to remove etched-in marks?
- Does the fuel filler look as if it has been forced or replaced?
Mileage
- Does the mileage, age and appearance of the car look consistent?
- Any signs like worn screws that the dashboard display might have been tampered with? (Digital displays can be tampered with electronically so clues like this won’t exist)
- Check the recorded mileage on service records, MOT certificates and other documents and compare most recent MOT to current milage.
- Does it look consistent with current mileage/condition and increase steadily year on year?
- Does the mileage on the dashboard match the checks you made on the DVLA website for MOT history?
Accidental damage
- Are there any inconsistent gaps between panels or mismatched colours that could be a sign of major repairs?
- Is the paint finish even across the car?
- Any traces of paint spray on handles, window seals or plastic mouldings? This is called overspray and is a sign that the work may not have been done be a professional and may present problems for you later.
- Could the car’s colour have been changed? (Look under carpets and in other hidden areas)
- Any unusual looking welding under the bonnet or in the boot?
- Are the headlights secure? If they can be moved easily, it will be a problem on MOT tests and could also be a sign that the car has been in an accident or poorly maintained?
Safety
- Are the tyres in good condition?
- All of the same specification and dimensions? (Not necessarily the same brand).

- Tyres with less than 3mm of tread will have to be replaced soon. (Legal tread must be 1.6mm)
- Is the spare wheel or tyre inflator/sealant kit in serviceable condition?
- Are the jack and other tools present?
- Do all the seatbelts operate correctly? Check there are no cuts or fraying that could affect the way they work.
- If airbags are fitted, check that warning lights operate as described in the handbook – normally they will come on with the ignition and then go out?
- Do all lights and windscreen wipers/washers work correctly?
Test drive
- Always take a test drive – if the seller won’t allow this, walk away.
- Do all warning lights operate normally? Lights will generally come on when you turn the ignition on and then go out – unless there’s a fault. If a warning light remains on, this could be a problem that needs fixing.

- Are the brakes effective or does it take a long time or a lot of effort to stop?
- Is braking even or does the car pull to one side?
- Any unusual noises when you brake?
- Is the handbrake effective? It should only be possible to pull it up to about 5-7 clicks. It should hold the car on a hill.
- Any steering vibration or pull to one side?
- Any knocking sounds when driving?
- If ABS is fitted, does the warning light go out after the engine is started?
- Was the car cold when you got there, if the engine is already hot, could there be a problem starting from cold?
Engine
- Any abnormal noises when the engine is started from cold?
- Does the oil warning light go out as soon as the engine starts?
- Any signs of excessive visible exhaust emissions, such as blue, black or grey smoke?
- Does the clutch operate normally? A noise when you press the pedal or a high biting point could mean that repairs will be required soon.
- Is the catalytic converter in good condition? Look for a recent emissions test, either alone or as part of an MOT. This will confirm that emissions are within the stringent limits applied to modern cars.
- Is there sludge on the underside of the oil filler cap? This could indicate poor servicing or predominantly short journey use.
- Is the oil level correct (see our post on checking your oil)? Low oil levels may mean neglect: too high could be a clue that the engine is using oil but it could just have been over filled in error.
- Has the cam belt been replaced according to the service schedule? It’s a hefty expense if it needs to be done.
Locks, windows and general controls
- Do all the locks, including central locking and remote-control work properly?
- Do all windows, including the sunroof if provided open/close normally?
- Any signs of forced entry, damaged or different locks, suggesting they’ve been replaced?
- Have you got all the right keys? Check the handbook to see which keys were provided when the car was new. Modern keys are expensive to replace, particularly the coloured ‘master’ key provided by some manufacturers to programme new spare keys to the car.
- Are locking wheel nuts fitted? Check that the special adapter required is included with the tool kit. Make sure it fits too.
- Do all the minor controls operate correctly – heating, ventilation, air-conditioning, radio/CD, navigation etc?
Get a receipt
If buying from a private seller the receipt should confirm that the vehicle is ‘sold as seen, tried and approved without guarantee’ and include the date of purchase and a signature from the buyer and seller.
Buy vehicle tax
Vehicle tax cannot be transferred from seller to buyer when purchasing a car. This is down to the buyer to sort out road tax before you drive away. Do it online which is very easy at https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax or Call the DVLA on 0300 790 6802
Make sure you are covered by your insurance
It is illegal to drive on the roads without insurance. Do not drive away until you have got your new vehicle covered.
There is a check list that you can print and take with you to help you remember what to check.
If this all still seems a bit daunting, we can help you with checking out a prospective vehicle.
Please call with information about where the vehicle is and when its available to view, we can book you in.